Adam Marelli Photo http://www.adammarelliphoto.com Now Boarding Leica Air . . . Tue, 16 Aug 2016 14:25:24 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.6.1 We have OFFICIALLY moved to amworkshops.com http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/08/we-have-officially-moved-to-amworkshops-com/ http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/08/we-have-officially-moved-to-amworkshops-com/#comments Tue, 16 Aug 2016 14:25:24 +0000 adam http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/?p=8533 [more...]]]> The new amworkshop.com page

The new amworkshop.com page

We have OFFICIALLY moved to amworkshops.com

Welcome to the new A/M Workshops Website

Built from the ground up just for you

Since 2010 I launched an online effort to connect photographers to their creative roots through the lessons of art and exploration.  In the beginning, almost everyone I talked to said to just do gear reviews and Top 10 lists.  They said those were the articles that got the most traffic and clicks are more important than connection.  I saw things differently and so did you.  The proof lies in the 1,500,000 page views on the original site and the 450,000+ views on YouTube.  Intelligent, creative photographers like you, want to use the lessons of art to expand their horizons and I’m right there with you.

This is why, I decided to rebuild the site from scratch.  I’d like to give you a brief guided tour to show you around and let you know how the site will make everything easier for you and also a bit more enjoyable.

Tips and techniques

Tips and techniques

The resource you have all been asking for

Tips + Techniques

One of the things that bugs me about blogs is that good content gets buried and you can never find it again.  I designed the Tips + Techniques page so that you can select the topics you’d like to study, all filed under major categories we seek to improve.

  • Art for Everyone:  All of the lessons from great artists translated into a language that photographers can easily read and apply to their own work.  They did not work for centuries for nothing…they wanted to pass their knowledge on to you and that is what we will do here.
  • Color Theory:  This is a science and one that photographers struggle to master.  In this section, I will break down the tools of scientists and master artists so you can get a firm grasp on how to use, manage, and adjust the color in your photography.
  • Composition:  We all want to speak the language of composition, but how can we use something more sophisticated that the Rule of Thirds…read here to find out more.
  • Creative Strategy:  The “starving artist” is a myth.  Creativity done right can be fulfilling, profitable, and successful.  We will look at the best practical approaches to mastering Creativity.
  • Hidden Treasures:  In my many travels, there are undiscovered gems, cultures, and treasures that fly under the radar.  We will look at these unique finds and map out the best route to get you there.
  • Lighting:  Natural light is the greatest gift the universe created for photographers.  In this section we will look at how and why finding light is a critical skill that every photograph can learn for themselves.
  • Photo Philosophy:  Maybe with a glass of wine or from the bow of an 80’ sailboat, this is where we reflect on what we do and why we do it.  In Photo Philosophy we will discuss the meaning behind our approaches to art, life, and creativity because you know what our good friend Plato said, “The unexamined life is…not worth living.”

3 Tips and Techniques 2

 

Portfolio

Galleries from around the globe

I will be the first to admit that I never get all of my professional work up on the site.  It has bugged me for years.  Photography is meant to be shared.  It is something I wanted to fix so that you can use the pictures as a guide for your learning, as a map for your next adventure, or for your own viewing pleasure.  In this section, you will be able to follow my projects and workshop shoots year round.  They will be updated quarterly with new work and unpublished series from my archives.

4 Portfolio

 

Workshops

Speaking of travel

For those of you who would like to explore Culture with me, side by side, the new workshop pages are for you.  Each location from Europe to Asia is laid out with itinerary details and previews of what you can look forward to in each workshop.  And if you can’t join us there, check out the One on One Program for an individualized learning experience that has attracted photographers from over 70 countries world wide.

5 Workshops

 

Publication Schedule

Your weekly reader

We all lead busy lives.  Whether it is work, family, or our relentless ambitions for something better, time might be our greatest treasure.  For this reason, I wanted to make the site and the publications as efficient as possible.  New articles will be published twice a week, every Tuesday and Thursday.  We’ve added a subscription option at the bottom, where you will receive monthly updates and offers before they go live on the website.  It is a great way to get in on limited offers of products and prints, which keep selling out.  (Note:  I do not share, sell, or distribute your email or send you anything other than what you asked for.  If you ever want to take a break, there is an unsubscribe button and we will always welcome you back.)

6 Videos

 

Videos

Best explained in person

Some things are best explained in person, which is why there is a new video section.  It contains all of my videos from free content on YouTube to the classes where I teach you to see like an artist on Udemy.

7 Contact

About

A personal note

Some of you know that photography represents only a portion of my professional work.  Many of my other roles as a speaker on Creativity & Entrepreneurship or an Image Strategy Advisor for companies, foreign governments, and art institutions never had a place to live on the old site.  I wanted to open up these other parts of my artistic life so that you might be encouraged to expand your ideas of what artist do and how we interact in the world at large.

There are 3 expandable sections, just hit the (+) to read more.

Contact

If you have an idea for an article, collaboration, or have a question about something on the site, drop me a line.

Over the years, I’ve received countless touching notes about how the website or the videos has helped a photographer who I’ve never even met develop.  It is a huge honor and I always love to hear from readers.

Time to enjoy yourself

Lastly, as we embark on this next phase of the A/M Workshops journey together, I’d like to thank everyone for joining me.  The website, the One on One’s, and the workshops continue to bring together an amazing group of people who share a passion for exploring the uncharted spaces and cultures that Creativity shapes around the world.

See you on the new site!

Best-Adam

 

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Florence Photo Journal No 02 http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/07/florence-photo-journal-no-02/ http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/07/florence-photo-journal-no-02/#comments Mon, 04 Jul 2016 20:53:25 +0000 adam http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/?p=8523 Florence Photo Journal No 02

Camera: Leica M240
Lens: 50mm f/2.0 Summicron
Settings: 1/180th second, f/2.4 @ ISO 400
Post Production: Lightroom
Location: Galleria Romanelli, Florence Italy
Details:  Plaster casts in the main studio of Galleria Romanelli

Florence Photo Journal No 02 Adam Marelli

Finished images after adjustments. 

Before Florence Photo Journal No 02 Adam Marelli

Original image before adjustments.  

 

Before and After Florence Photo Journal No 02 Adam Marelli

Before and After Florence Photo Journal No 02 Adam Marelli

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Florence Photo Journal No. 01 http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/06/florence-photo-journal-no-01/ http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/06/florence-photo-journal-no-01/#comments Thu, 30 Jun 2016 23:25:59 +0000 adam http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/?p=8507 [more...]]]> Florence Photo Journal No. 01

What does a picture look like fresh out of camera versus finished?  The next few entries to the site will show you a before/after comparison and a list of settings for each picture.  Enjoy!

Camera: Leica M240
Lens: 50mm f/2.0 Summicron
Settings: 1/250th second, f/4.0 @ ISO 800
Post Production: Lightroom
Location: Galleria Romanelli, Florence Italy
Details:  Art student Heloise de Mil working on a sculpture at Galleria Romanelli

Before and After Florence Photo Journal No 01 Adam Marelli

Before and After Florence Photo Journal No 01 Adam Marelli

Florence Photo Journal No 01 Adam Marelli

Florence Photo Journal No 01 Adam Marelli

 

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Coming Soon: New AM Workshops Website http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/06/coming-soon-new-am-workshops-website/ http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/06/coming-soon-new-am-workshops-website/#comments Mon, 27 Jun 2016 16:27:59 +0000 adam http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/?p=8497 [more...]]]> Coming Soon

The summer is off to a quiet start or so it seems. The workshops in Italy (Florence and Matera) went fantastically well, but back in NYC most of the action has been behind the scenes. There is a new website in the works and it will be released next month. After nearly 5 years of adammarelliphoto.com and over +1,500,000 unique visitors it is time for a refresh.

A complete artistic resource for photographers

When I started the site, there was no long term vision. It was an experiment to see if photographers were interested in the lessons and observations from the world of art. Most people told me it was too complicated. They said stick to writing reviews and making top 10 lists. That is what photographers want. And while there is a large audience who read photo websites like they are Buzzfeed quizzes, there is another, more thoughtful group.

That group is you…and as I suspected there are more curious, art-minded photographers out there than the photo world thinks. Which is why, after 5 years of articles, videos, and comments, I feel like we know each other well enough to rebuild the site with our interests in mind.

The New Site

What will you find on the new site? The aim is to be a resource of artistic knowledge for photographers. And one of the major steps in doing that is making the site and the back articles easier to navigate. This way, you can quickly read up on an array of subjects without having to go through miles of “blog-style-entries” or tags. Easy, simple, and rich were the words at the forefront of my mind when I designed the site.

Additionally, there will be a dedicated video page for both free and online classes…all in one place.

But what will happen to adammarelliphoto.com? For the time being, nothing. All of the content will stay. Some of it will get migrated to the new site, but everything you enjoyed reading, from articles on Eugene Smith to the Surrealist’s Manifesto will still be accessible here.

I’d like to thank EVERYONE for your patience and support. This website continues to bring together a fascinating combination of photographers and travelers, who share common approaches to leading interesting lives. I expect the new site will make that process even easier.

In the days leading up to the release, I will be posting a collection of pictures from our recent travels to Florence and Matera (along with the camera settings) for you to enjoy. Hopefully it reveals a bit about my process of Natural-light shooting and how good pictures don’t need to be complicated.

New site will be live next month, with an announcement here. Stay Tuned!

Best-Adam

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Your questions answered: Who should I study to improve my craft? http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/05/your-questions-answered-who-should-i-study-to-improve-my-craft/ http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/05/your-questions-answered-who-should-i-study-to-improve-my-craft/#comments Thu, 19 May 2016 12:53:28 +0000 adam http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/?p=8377 [more...]]]> Your questions answered

Who should I study to improve my craft?

British photographer Dave Geffin asked:

Who (and why) are the most important artists photographers should or could look at for inspiration and understanding on how better to improve their own understanding of the craft?

Success comes in many forms.  For some it is a problem of economy.  They would like to make more money. For others it is a philosophical problem, where they want to get at the root of why they take pictures.  Some want to make their mark on the world, while others would like to be “An artist’s artist”, meaning that they appeal to a very small, but very informed audience.  How you define success is entirely up to you, but it is safe to say that when any of us wants to improve our craft, we want to succeed in one way or another.  While we may be able to see the road to success, it often appears to be very long with no end in sight.

Improving our craft is a collaboration with history.  If you want to improve your craft, don’t just study the artists you admire, study the artists that inspired them.  I can’t tell you how many times I’ve listened to “self taught photographers” rag on about how they invented something that has been in existence for hundreds of years.  Not knowing someone came before us does not make us innovative but instead makes us ignorant (and who really aspires to be ignorant?!).  Not too long ago, I heard a photographer claiming he invented the use of the white background.  Meanwhile Edouard Manet used one regularly in the 1800′s for his portraits.

Edouard Manet's Portrait of the Model 1880 (using a white background)

Edouard Manet’s Portrait of the Model 1880 (using a white background)

From my own experience, I’ve looked to those people who have succeeded in the past and studied their approach.  When it comes to photography the easiest way to think about it is to study the artists that inspired the photographers you enjoy.  Let me give you an example.

A view of Mont Saint Victoire by Paul Cezanne

A view of Mont Saint Victoire by Paul Cezanne

Henri Cartier-Bresson is one of the more influential photographers of the last 100 years.  Many aspiring photographers would love to find a signature style, work around the world, and bridge the gap between the photography and the art worlds like HCB did during his lifetime.  But why was he able to do this?

MEXICO. Puebla. 1963. © Henri Cartier-Bresson/Magnum Photos

MEXICO. Puebla. 1963. © Henri Cartier-Bresson/Magnum Photos

If you want to understand the photographers you like, don’t just look at their pictures on the Internet.  Find out who they studied when they were younger.  It will reveal aspects of their work that you will not find online.  Cartier-Bresson had a few artists that he credited as being “the best.”  They were:

  • Paolo Uccello: 15th century Italian artist who was a pioneer in drawing and painting platonic solids.
  • Piero della Francesca:  15th century Italian artist who is credited as one of the founders of Perspective and who wrote extensively on mathematics.
  • Paul Cezanne:  19th century French artist who learned perspective only to break it down piece by piece.  His post impressionist innovations became the foundation of Cubism and Futurism.

Have you heard of these artists before or are they new?  If they are completely new, please look them up.  If you know the names, but can’t see the connection between their work and HCB, I’d recommend the books below.  And if you know the artists and can see how their influence changed the course of HCB’s life…then share your knowledge with other photographers online.

Study of a hood in perspective by Paolo Uccello

Study of a hood in perspective by Paolo Uccello

To simplify these three artists even further, we could say that Uccello and della Francesca created a system of three dimensional form, then Cezanne inherited that tradition, broke it apart and put it together again.

The Flagellation of Christ by Piero della Francesca

The Flagellation of Christ by Piero della Francesca

If you would like to improve your craft, my suggestion is to discover your artistic family roots.  Art history offers us a network of sisters and brothers in arms who share our interests.  They experienced many of the same aspirations, doubts, and failures that we experience.  Their negatives, their sketchbooks and their biographies hold thousands of lessons-learned that we can apply to our future work.  The experience brings us into a wonderful communion with the artists that inspire us.  Throughout the process we will find that most of the problems we face were solved long ago.  Why re-invent the wheel?  By learning from history, we can leapfrog forward to the innovations that will fulfill our artistic path, and then leave our lessons for the next generation.

Best-AM

Additional Reading

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Jaeger LeCoultre Master Class: Try your hand at the watchmaking tradition http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/04/jaeger-lecoultre-master-class-try-your-hand-at-the-watchmaking-tradition/ http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/04/jaeger-lecoultre-master-class-try-your-hand-at-the-watchmaking-tradition/#comments Fri, 22 Apr 2016 21:16:28 +0000 adam http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/?p=8435 [more...]]]> Jaeger LeCoultre Master Class

Try your hand at the watchmaking tradition

C A L I B R E  9 8 6

Drawing detail from Dava Sobel

Drawing detail from John Harrison in Dava Sobel’s book “Longitude.”

Hands on Appreciation

One of the fastest ways to gain an appreciation for anything is to get your hands dirty.  Learn how to hem a pair of pants, sharpen a knife, or hang a wooden door.  Many of the objects we use everyday require someone to have devoted years to their craft before we can use their products.  Similar to our health, we tend not to think about them until either something breaks or we want to learn how to do it ourselves.

When we open ourselves to learning something new, our level of appreciation shoots through the roof.  In my own experience, learning a new craft always teaches me how little I really know.  It is a humbling path.  There are so many moments in life where the contributions of thousands, if not millions of hours of skill pass under my fingers and I hardly even notice them.

As an admirer and budding collector of watches, I want to increase my appreciation of what it takes to make a watch.  The steps are countless and very few watchmakers of any generation mastered them all.  My introduction to watchmaking came from John Harrison. For those of you who are also familiar with the Longitude Problem, you know who he is.  For those of you who have never heard of Harrison, I will try to sum up a lifetime of achievements in a few sentences.

John Harrison H-1 Clock

John Harrison H-1 Clock

In the 1700′s the English Crown created an award for anyone who could solve the Longitude Problem.  The aim was to create something that kept time at sea without major deviation, so captains could accurately calculate their longitude.  Eventually Harrison, who was a woodworker by trade, made a series of clocks that won the prize.  The early solution, called the H-1, measured 3′ x 3′ x 3′.  It was small enough to take aboard a ship, but not exactly pocket size.  By the time he had arrived at his later H-3, H-4, and H-5 solutions he had created the pocket watch.  This was a monumental feat that won Harrison the backing of Sir Isaac Newton and the purse, which was equivalent to about £20,000,000.

Longitude by Dava Sobel

Longitude by Dava Sobel

“With his marine clocks, John Harrison tested the waters of space-time. He succeeded, against all odds, in using the fourth—temporal—dimension to link points on the three-dimensional globe. He wrested the world’s whereabouts from the stars, and locked the secret in a pocket watch.”

When I read Dava Sobel’s book “The Longitude Problem” I was hooked on watches.  And last week, I was fortunate enough to step out side of the realm of the spectator and into the world of the watchmaker.

John Harrison's H-4 Pocket Chronometer

John Harrison’s H-4 Pocket Chronometer

A number of watch brands allow clients to take apart and reassemble watch movements.  Now this is not watch making school by any means.  It is more like wading in the shallow end of the watchmaking-pool with swimmies and a private lifeguard.  But it is fascinating nonetheless.

Jaeger LeCoultre Duoface Reverso copy

Jaeger LeCoultre Duoface Reverso

Jaeger LeCoultre arranged for Laurent Camelin, one of their watchmakers, to come to New York from Switzerland. Normally he works on their Sphyrotourbillons, Gyrotourbillons, and perpetual calendars.  In laymen’s terms, these are watches that have hundreds of moving parts and retail north of $100,000, which is why it was a great honor to have someone so eminently capable holding our hands as we took apart a far simpler movement.  We were given a Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 986 Grande Reverso Duoface watch.  Originally designed for Polo players in India, the Reverso famously turns over so you can close the face of the watch for protection.  It might not be the most exotic movement in the JLC line up, but it has a great history and was plenty for a beginner like me.

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Class Adam Marelli

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Class and the calibre 986. ©  Adam Marelli

We were given a loupe (the monocle looking thing I’m wearing), tools, and a small work bench.  Watchmaker’s work benches are set very high, so they can work comfortably while sitting.  If they were bent over at a normal height desk, the watch industry would be filled with hunchbacks and no one wants that.

From there, we were introduced to the movement.  All of its parts were described by Laurent.  We went through their functions, not the geometry and gear ratios that make it work.  Remember, we were just getting started.  Step by step we powered down the main spring. This prevents the watch from literally exploding when you take off the bridge.  We removed the main spring, the drive train, and the escapement, placing them carefully on our work bench.  You have to keep them in order, otherwise putting it back together would be even harder.

The balance wheel and screws.

The balance wheel and screws of the calibre 986. © Adam Marelli

The tools we used were purpose-built and tiny.  The screws we removed were even tinier.  As a builder I could see the logic of the watch’s construction as it came apart, but I was amazed by how fragile the whole assembly really is.  One slip with the screw driver can gouge the bridge or the main plate.  Pulling too hard on the balance wheel can break the hairspring.  The overall margin for error in a movement that only measures 4mm thick is small.  Imagine building a snowball with a pair of tweezers one snowflake at a time.

After we successfully removed all the parts, Laurent warned us that if we put it back together and every part is not perfectly seated, the movement will not work.  We will have to take it all apart and start again.  This got me thinking.  What happens when Laurent assembles a Sphyrotourbillon that has 476 parts and it does not work?  I asked if they had a special sound proof room where watchmakers can go and scream?  He said, “No but it would be a good idea to install one.”

I asked if they had a special sound proof room where watch makers can go and scream?  ”He said, no but it would be a good idea to install one.”

The correctly assembled movement.

The correctly assembled 986 movement. © Adam Marelli

Then it came time for us to try and reconstruct the watch.  As you can probably imagine, taking it apart is much easier than putting it back together.  Feeling the “correct fit” is unusual.  I think just due to the size of components the positive lock of fitting a piece in place is not as firm as you might expect.  Until the bridge locks everything together pieces kind of float in place and are very easy to knock out of alignment.

An hour after we started, all the pieces were back in place.  Humpty Dumpty was whole again and with a flick on the balance wheel, the watch came back to life.  It was ticking and beating just as it should.  It was immensely gratifying.

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Class Adam Marelli-16

Trying to be serious…and not doing a great job.

Not being so serious.

Not being so serious with Watchmaker Laurent Camelin and Adam Marelli.

To commemorate our newbie status Laurent presented us with certificates.  I asked him to do his best Swiss impression aka no smile.  He was perfect.  Afterwards we cracked a smile and took a look around the boutique.  Revisiting the watches now, they took on a new life. The Reverso somehow looked more approachable.  I could flip them over and finally understand how all those little pieces work in harmony.  Each watch felt in some way more expressive.  The high complication watches went from being novelties of many moving parts to incomprehensible testaments to patience.

But how does this connect to photography?

In a single word…interest.  One of the areas where I see many new photographers struggle is in their ability to really understand what it is that captures their interest.  Photography, in and of itself, is hardly enough unless of course you want to take pictures of cameras.  But to step inside of your interests…to feel them, take them apart, and examine why you are attracted to them will lead you down a road of self discovery.  Whether you end up in a watchmaking class or flying co-pilot in a fighter jet, a hands-on experience offers many advantages that will benefit your photography.

For me, I was grateful Jaeger LeCoultre invited me to the class.  It shows their commitment to watchmaking and watch connoisseurship. Because if each subsequent generation cannot understand the value of tradition, it runs the risk of being lost over time.

Best-AM

 

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What’s the difference: Made-To-Measure, Custom, and Bespoke http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/04/whats-the-difference-made-to-measure-custom-and-bespoke/ http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/04/whats-the-difference-made-to-measure-custom-and-bespoke/#comments Wed, 13 Apr 2016 17:00:13 +0000 adam http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/?p=8337 [more...]]]> What is handmade, really?!

Getting at the heart of craftsmanship

If the jacket does not look like this, it is not bespoke. Credit Mark Cho

If the jacket does not look like this, it is not bespoke. Credit Mark Cho

A large part of my time abroad is time spent getting at the heart of craftsmanship.  It is a mission of mine to decode the cryptic world of handmade objects.  Why?  Because they are amazing and when we understand what goes into these pieces, we move past the object worship and can really appreciate the hundreds, sometimes even thousands of years that go into a tradition.

Back home I transcribe the conversations I have with craftsmen into layman’s terms.  Left in their original form they might be confusing.  My aim with these transcriptions is to create an environment that opens the conversation, where no one is afraid to ask questions.  There is NOTHING wrong with not knowing how to do something.  But there is NO EXCUSE for not asking.  Seriously, go ahead and make a fool of yourself. I do it all the time.

Asking obvious or naive sounding questions of expert craftsmen can be a bladder-emptying experience.  Sure, none of us wants to look like an idiot.  That is totally understandable,  although if I can tempt you to come across the threshold of fear/embarrassment for a moment….when you ask someone about what they do, they are usually flattered.  They are happy to explain their life’s calling to a genuinely interested person. Which is why today, I would like to delve into a topic that gets molested by marketing and advertising all the time.  They do a huge disservice to craftsman and potential clients every day.

It is a discussion I have frequently with a friend of mine and a very respectable photographer in his own right, Mark Cho.  For those of you who don’t know Mark, he started the gentlemen’s shop The Armory (which has boutiques in Hong Kong and New York City) and is co-owner of Drakes London (who recently produced the collaboration pocket square and scarf I designed for The Explorer’s Club). Mark lives in a world of artisanal clothing.  Literally anything in your wardrobe can be furnished by the artisans that Mark works with daily.  He is my clothing counterpart when it comes to loving craftsmanship.

Over lunch in Tribeca, Mark and I discussed the confusion that many of his customers have and how we can dispel some of the myths and marketing junk that muddies the very best with some of the very worst products in the world.

Mark Cho of the Armory

Mark Cho of the Armory

Made to Measure, Custom, and Bespoke

These terms get thrown around a lot.  But all handmade things are not created equally and Made-to-Measure and Bespoke are worlds apart.  What do I mean?

For those of you who are not familiar with how craftsmen use these terms, here is quick summary.  This way, when you hear someone say “oh we offer a bespoke so and so…”  you can tell whether they are the read deal or just blowing smoke up your nether region.

Ring Jacket offers brilliant read to wear and bespoke garments.  Credit Mark Cho

Ring Jacket offers brilliant read to wear and bespoke garments. Credit Mark Cho

MADE-TO-MEASURE

This term is for pre-templated items that are selectively adjusted along certain measurements.

Example: Shirts. Why shirts?  Because this is a very easy example to understand.  Cars and watches are much more complicated. 

What you get:  A made to measure shirt is based on an existing template.  The main cuts and proportions are predetermined, but they will adjust the neck, sleeves, cuffs and you can pick some details like buttons, pockets and plaquettes.

What you don’t get:  For example, if your shoulders do not fit the same template as the model, you are out of luck.  This would require rebuilding the whole template and Made to Measure does not do that.  Think of it like having an off the rack item altered in advance.

The Premium:  Made to Measure is typically 25%-50% over retail.  On average this translates into a $100 shirt costing anywhere from $125-$200.  Not a bad markup if you fit the their template, but if you don’t then Made to Measure can be a complete loss.

Pocket Square for The Explorer's Club by Drakes London designed by Adam Marelli

Pocket Square for The Explorer’s Club by Drakes London designed by Adam Marelli

CUSTOM

This term is almost meaningless.  It can be used as a cover for Made to Measure or can be improperly applied to Bespoke.  In its best scenario this usually means choosing from a selection of pre-designed elements that are then woven together.  But all in all, it is a very misleading term.

What you get:  You never know, in terms of quality, but it is often marketed as more expensive than Made-To-Measure, even if it is actually the same thing.  It very much depends on the maker.  Some customized items can be great, but the term is too vague to know whether it will be really good or not.  You can have a hand-made, custom piece that is absolute garbage.  Research what you are buying because if they are selling “custom”, things can go really wrong really fast.

What you don’t get:  You don’t get unlimited options.  This is a big mistake I’ve seen frequently in custom architecture, cars, motorcycles, clothing, and shoes.  Clients think it means anything they want, but this is rarely the case.  If you want every little request met, you are actually asking for Bespoke.

The Premium:  Inspite of the fact that custom things might only be nominally different than Made-To-Measure, the premiums are the Wild West in terms of pricing.  Items can be anywhere from 2x to 10x as expensive as retail.  Be aware of what you are really getting.

Yamamoto-san of CAID Tailors. Credit Mark Cho

Yamamoto-san of CAID Tailors. Credit Mark Cho

BESPOKE

When this term first started gaining popular traction in everything from tailoring to travel, it was liberally applied.  But it is a whole different ball game than Made-To-Measure. Real bespoke means it is made for you from beginning to end.  To stick with the “shirt” example, they are not working off of a template, they are making you your very own.  This is where One of a Kind comes from.

What you get:  Whatever you want or can afford.  As my building mentor used to say, “You want a bathtub on the ceiling?!  Sure, as long as you pay for it.”  Bespoke means they will more or less do anything you want or whatever they will tolerate.  Some makers will turn away business that is not inline with how they like to do things.  It is up to them.

What you don’t get:  There is an old axiom in construction…Clients want Quality, Speed, and a Low Price.  In reality you can only ever get 2 of the 3.  In Bespoke you can only get 1, Quality.  True Bespoke items are NEVER fast and NEVER cheap.  But how expensive, might you ask?

The Premium:  While I’ve heard many times, If you have to ask, you can’t afford it,” that is not exactly true.  There are plenty of ways to research costs up front so your jaw does not hit the floor when they tell you the bottom line.  BUT, the safest way to figure the cost for Bespoke is to add a zero.  Yup it can be THAT expensive.  Shoes from Allan Edmonds maybe $400, shoes from JG Cleverly try $4000.  God forbid you stumble into John Lobb, there you are looking at closer to $10,000.

Say you want to buy a watch, and maybe you fancy a Rolex…you might be able to walk away for $7,000.  If you have Roger Smith, Kari Voutilainen, or Fp Journe make you one, it could be $100,000-$650,000, and if your watchmaker is only making severely limited quantities like Philippe DuFour, you could be bidding against other collectors for over $1,000,000.

If you find yourself in the world of shirts, you might get a decent dress shirt for around $100 at a shop.  But head over to Leonard Logsdail and you will find a 3 shirt minimum at $500 per shirt.  If that doesn’t get you to where you want to be, try Luigi Borrelli for $800 per shirt.

The point is, when a high end craftsman starts from scratch for a client, it can come at an enormous premium.  It is clearly not for everyone.  But the amount of work that goes into making a template for a single client is fantastically time consuming.

Koji Suzuki's bespoke loafers, which are designed to age beautifully. Credit Mark Cho

Koji Suzuki’s bespoke loafers, which are designed to age beautifully. Credit Mark Cho

The Artisans mentioned above

If you would like to look further at any of the artisans above, I wanted to include the links.  And in full disclosure, I don’t get any money from these guys, I just think they make great things.

 

Enjoy the treasures you discover!

Best-AM

 

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How to take criticism: Part 2, learn how to give it properly http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/04/how-to-take-criticism-part-2-learn-how-to-give-it-properly/ http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/04/how-to-take-criticism-part-2-learn-how-to-give-it-properly/#comments Tue, 12 Apr 2016 12:34:16 +0000 adam http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/?p=8383 [more...]]]> How to Take Criticism

Part 2, learn how to give it properly

 Taeko Kawaguchi Adam Marelli-2

As a follow up to How to Take Criticism: Part 1, I’d like to delve further into the ideas that roll around in my head when I look at someone else’s pictures.  One of the best ways to learn how to take criticism is to learn how to give it.

Being on the giving end changes the game of critiquing for a lot of people.  Now, I’m not talking about the criticism you see on Facebook or YouTube, where constructive criticism is confused with personal attack.  If someone says they think you are a “D*ck-bag mother-f*cker and I hope your unborn children all rot in H*ll…” (actual quote from something I saw on YouTube) do not fret.  That is not criticism, that is a plea for help delivered in the form of a personal attack.  We won’t be exploring the psychotic realms of keyboard warriors today.  Instead, let’s look at a clear and simple way that you can offer reviews to friends that will actually help them understand how well they are communicating their ideas in pictures.

Think for a moment how frequently we feel misunderstood when we speak, now imagine that confusion gets compounded by 100 when we take pictures.  Given the opportunity to fully express the ideas and emotions that we have, we don’t often get it right. Arguments with friends, family, and partners are a testament that communication is actually very difficult to do regularly.  If we take the same range of ideas and emotions and remove ALL of the WORDS, you can see how things get a lot trickier.  The range of interpretation just went from moderate to Biblical.

This is why, when I review pictures for someone, I think it is only fair to let them know what I am looking for, so that even if I misunderstand their intentions they at least have a sense of how the pictures appeared and what I was looking for in them.

Taeko Kawaguchi © Adam Marelli-3

How do I review a photograph?

There are three main things that I look for in every picture.  This is no matter what type of photography, be it documentary, street, portrait, landscape, still life, fine art, conceptual, whatever…I am looking for three things.

The three things are:

  • Formal elements
  • Content
  • Point of View

 Taeko Kawaguchi  Adam Marelli-4

Why?

Because the combination of these three elements can be rearranged in near endless variety, and if they perfectly overlap with something else, then the picture lacks the unique stamp of the photographer…which means, they need to keep working.

It is the criterion that I put on every picture, project, and series I make.  I do not always pass my own test, which is why my hard drives have hundreds of thousands of shots and I have only a few hundred published pictures.

And what do I mean by Formal Elements, Content and Point of View?  Let me explain in the simplest language possible, because the art and photo world have enough fancy-nonsensical language to put even a lawyer to sleep.

Formal Elements

Formal Elements are the building blocks of a picture.  They start with light and geometry.  They are the whites and blacks, the shapes and colors of every photo.  Every picture has a combination of lights and darks.  If it didn’t it would just be a sheet of white or black paper.  The way a photographer chooses the light, shapes, directions, and the intensity of each of these makes up the Formal Elements.

Formal elements, on their own, have ZERO meaning.  A triangle doesn’t mean more than a square.  The Rule of Thirds is not more pleasing than the 1.5 grid.  These constructs simply EXIST, but they become connected to content, which is where they get their meaning.

Content

Simply put, Content is the meaning that we give to a picture.  It is a belief.  In many cases it is a shared belief, which is why people react similarly to the same picture, but always remember it is a belief and not a fact.  The fact is that it is a photograph, what it means is forever flexible.

This is where most of the world gets stuck, because something like “colors” means different things in different cultures.  Color has no inherent meaning.  We give it meaning and then we agree on it.

Content is a slippery slope because the meaning can and will change with its surroundings.  But that does not stop us from debating it until we are blue in the face.  Which is why I look at content in relationship to the person who made it.  This gets me to the last building block.

Point of View

When I look at a picture, I ask myself “Why should I be looking at this?” Does this photographer have anything insightful to say about the world they are photographing?  It does not matter if they are a photo journalist or constructing dioramas in their basement, there is something in front of a lens and they chose to push the shutter…WHY?

The major problem with this is that many photographers have no idea.  They chalk it up to intuition.  And while every other professional field in the world has a level of intuition, from making a business deal to playing the violin or dodging a punch in a boxing ring…if we do not separate what we do as photographers from what surveillance cameras do, then we are nothing more than expensive recording devices.

What the history of culture, call it high culture if you like, of literature, art, music have shown us over the course of 50,000 years of history is that humans enjoy the perspectives, insights, and points of view of people who have a compelling presence.

The only photography that has ever held my attention is one where I can feel the presence of a photographer who has a point of view about the thing they are photographing.

 Taeko Kawaguchi  Adam Marelli-5

Sum It All Up

If the form, content, and point of view do not reveal enough interesting material about the things that are inside the picture…it is a pass.

But…if that mixture leads to a curious insight about a moment frozen in time forever, then we are on to something and should have a closer look.

Best-AM

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Your questions answered: How do I email pictures for a review? http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/03/your-questions-answered-how-do-i-email-pictures-for-a-review/ http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/03/your-questions-answered-how-do-i-email-pictures-for-a-review/#comments Fri, 25 Mar 2016 21:27:19 +0000 adam http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/?p=8356 [more...]]]> Your questions answered  

How do I email pictures for a review?

Your questions answered Adam Marelli

A question that I get at least once a week, is “How should I send my pictures?”

While this might seem obvious to a lot of people, there are many photographers who don’t know the best way to email pictures.  There is nothing wrong with not knowing and it’s always better to ask someone who knows how to properly email pictures so it is easier on the receiving end.

Why does it matter?  Because sending your pictures the right way can mean the difference between getting a gig or not…or even having your pictures looked at.

It is the number 1 mistake that most photographers make and they don’t even know they are making it.  It can be a lesson learned the hard way or by reading the list below, which will save you all the trouble.

How do i email pictures for a review-2

Why email pictures?

Part of the problem that most photographers have is they misunderstand the purpose of emailing photos.  The point is to get someone on the receiving end to look at them as easily as possible.  Anything that makes the pictures harder to look at is going to cost you. Personally I don’t mind if Workshop or One on One students make these mistakes, but if anyone is trying to get a review, job, gig, exhibition, or is pitching their work, it is critical to not make any of these common mistakes.  It can literally cost you thousands of dollars a year.

 How do i email pictures for a review-1

First let’s look at the mistakes, so you know

What NOT to do:

Do NOT send Zip Folders.  It is one extra step someone must take to unzip them, and most likely there are too many pictures in the set or the files are too big.  How many is too many pictures?  Depending on the type of email, usually 10-20 max is fine.  Try sending someone 50 pictures and they may never respond.

Do NOT send High Res pictures (printing size.)  No one needs to see every detail in the picture.  In all likelihood, most galleries, clients, collectors, and editors will only skim the pics anyway.  They might not even look at them on a computer.  28MB files are not going to help you.

How do i email pictures for a review-4

Do NOT use Dropbox, Google Drive or any other file share.  Why?  They are an infernal pain in the ass.  If I have to go somewhere other than the email to look at the pictures, it is a fuss.  Then if I need to go back to them I have to remember, was that an email, or GDrive or Dropbox.  I want them all in one easy place…like my inbox.  Remember, the aim is to the make life easier for the receiver.  If they have to do additional steps like open other windows, preview, download or anything other that just look at the pictures, you are working against yourself.

Do NOT send links.  Think of your email as a neatly wrapped, curated package that puts you in the best possible light for consideration.  Emailing a link, aside from requiring more effort on the receiver’s part, shows that you have not put something together for them.  Only send links if they ask.  And if they do ask, put the link in the email, NOT in the signature.  And don’t send links to private galleries on hosting sites like Smugmug, etc.

Do NOT cover the picture with watermarks.  Sending pictures for review with a watermark is like telling the person you think they might steal your pictures.  Not the idea you want to put forward.  The only time I will ever send something with a watermark is a proof for editorial.  And the watermark is small and in the corner.

Do NOT label the pictures with the receivers name.  I can’t tell you how many people send me folders and files called “Adam Marelli.”  I am Adam Marelli, not the pictures.  And when I want to look up your pics, I should be searching for your name, not mine.

Do NOT send emails asking “Hey can you plz check out my pics?”  If someone can’t be bothered to put together a full sentence about their own work, no one will take them seriously.  That is a guaranteed way to never get work reviewed.

Lastly, be aware that if you are asking someone to look at your pictures, make sure they offer reviews.  Like many professionals, I offer paid reviews.  Why?  Because it makes for a mutual exchange.  When someone asks me to review their pictures, I do so at the best of my ability.  My One on One students can attest that I go through every image, make formal and conceptual recommendations based on their questions, and send follow up resources and links.  Reviewing is part of the work for me and many other photography professionals.  As a photographer, you don’t want people asking you to do free work…so why would you ask someone else to do it?

What TO do

Ok, now that we have the boo-boo’s out of the way, let’s talk about how you can send pictures so that people will actually look at them.

Do size your pictures for email.  1500px across the long edge at 200-300 dpi jpeg will do just fine.

Name your files with your or the project name.  eg.  ”In the field. Katie Garrison-1″  or even more basic “Iceland-1 Doug Meyers”

Paste your pictures right into the email.  This way, when the email opens in most browsers, the pictures open automatically.

Put your text at the top.  You never know if they get to the bottom of the email so say your hellos and goodbyes at the top.

Tell them what the email is for, even if they are expecting it.  You never know how busy someone might be.  It is a good refresher for their memory.  It could look like this:  ”Hi Catherine, Here is a small collection of the images from Patagonia that I took last June.  I look forward to reviewing them together in our session.”  That’s it…no need to go into all the details, that can be handled later.  Things like client or editorial pitches might have a few extra lines, but be quick and to the point.

And if all else fails and you are not sure what to do, ask someone who does.  There are enough photographers online that there is certainly someone you can turn to for help.  In fact I might know someone…

Best-AM

 

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Sneak Peek: A\MARELLI x Chapman Camera Bag http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/03/sneak-peek-amarelli-x-chapman-camera-bag/ http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/2016/03/sneak-peek-amarelli-x-chapman-camera-bag/#comments Mon, 21 Mar 2016 22:37:24 +0000 adam http://www.adammarelliphoto.com/?p=8335 [more...]]]> S N E A K  P E E K

A\MARELLI x Chapman Camera Bag

Made in the England

Camera bags…the most loved and hated accessory a photographer can own.  Camera bags always feel like the victims of “design by committee.”  They are the best-average solution.  In making my own camera bags, my aim was to bring a singular vision back to everything I use, one object at a time.  I started with camera bags and next it will be camera straps.  What I did not expect was that so many people would enjoy the uniqueness of my designs.

A\MARELLI Camera Bag No 1 © Alvaro Lucena 3 MARELLI Camera Bag No 1 © Alvaro Lucena MARELLI Camera Bag No 1 © Alvaro Lucena 1 MARELLI Camera Bag No 1 © Alvaro Lucena 2 MARELLI Camera Bag No 1 © Alvaro Lucena 6 MARELLI Camera Bag No 1 © Alvaro Lucena 5

The first round of bags I made with Slow Tools was only ever intended to be a short run.  The logistics of their operation in Japan and my very small production numbers meant that only a few people would ever get the bags.  Each one was individually numbered and included a hand written card.  But week after week, requests for the bags continued.  Based on your enthusiasm, I decided to do another round.  But this time with English manufacturer Chapman Bags.

Outfitters of hunting and game bags, Chapman is top notch.  Their parachute webbing and heavy duty fabrics (18-24oz.), meant that I could have a new set of options for another bag.  And most importantly, their bags fit the natural aesthetic we all love.  The bags feel at home in the field and can easily hang over the shoulder of a blazer or sweater and not feel like a piece of camping gear.  My friends who have to photograph watch events like SIHH and Basel will be excited.

Chapman’s factory is set in Cumbria in the heart of pastoral northern England.  Almost everything they produce is made in house. They still use paper templates for each of their designs.  Chapman are the type of craftsmen that we visit during a workshop and I photograph professionally…by which I mean real artisans.

Here is a video preview of their work and a taste of what you can expect from the new A/MARELLI x Chapman Camera bag.  If you are interested in being added to the “Please Notify” list, drop us an email here and we will keep you updated.

Best-AM

 

 

 

 

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